Pins
Choosing the right pin for the fabric - silk, glass-head, ballpoint, quilting and appliqué pins, plus clips and pattern weights - how to pin a seam so you don't sew over pins, and storing them safely.
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Pins hold fabric and pattern pieces in position until they're cut, sewn, or basted. They look interchangeable in the box, but the wrong pin can snag fine fabric, leave permanent holes in silk, bend in heavy denim, or melt under the iron. A small selection of two or three types covers almost every project.
Types of pin
| Pin | Description | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Silk pins | Fine (about 0.5 mm), sharp, usually 1 1/4-1 3/8" (30-35 mm) | Silks, sheers, fine cottons, anything that shows holes |
| Glass-head pins | Medium thickness, glass heads that withstand the iron | General dressmaking; can be pressed over |
| Ballpoint pins | Rounded tip that slips between yarns | Knits and jersey, where sharp pins snag or ladder |
| Quilting / long pins | Long (about 1 3/4-2", 45-50 mm) and sturdy | Thick fabrics, several layers, wool coating, pinning patterns |
| Appliqué pins | Very short, about 3/4" (20 mm) | Small pieces, tight curves, pinning bias binding |
| Plastic-head pins | Easy to see and grip | General use, but heads melt under the iron |
| Flat-head or flower pins | Large flat heads that lie flat | Pinning lace and open weaves; they stay put and don't slip through |
| T-pins | T-shaped, long and strong | Pinning into a dress form, upholstery, blocking |
Pins are made of steel (strong, slightly magnetic, may rust), nickel-plated steel, stainless steel or brass (rust-resistant, not magnetic). A pin that feels rough or has a burr on the point will snag fabric. Throw it away.
Pinning a seam
- Pin at right angles to the seam, with the heads toward the edge of the fabric and the points pointing into the garment. Pins placed this way hold the layers more firmly than pins parallel to the edge, and they're easy to pull out as you sew.
- Match the important points first: the ends, the notches, and any crossing seams. Then pin between them.
- Pin within the seam allowance on delicate fabrics, so any holes are hidden inside the garment.
- Space pins closer together (every 1-2", 2.5-5 cm) on curves, eased seams and slippery fabrics, further apart on straight seams in stable fabrics.
- Remove each pin before the needle reaches it. Sewing over pins can deflect the needle so it hits the pin. That breaks the needle, can throw sharp fragments, and can damage the machine's timing or hook. It's a habit worth breaking even though it sometimes works.
Alternatives to pins
- Sewing clips (wonder clips) clamp the edges together without making holes. They're ideal for leather, vinyl, laminated fabrics, very thick layers, and bias binding.
- Pattern weights hold paper patterns flat for cutting without pins. Use them with a rotary cutter. Washers, tins or smooth stones work as well.
- Basting, with long hand or machine stitches, is more reliable than pins for slippery fabrics, eased seams and zips. See Zipper Insertion.
- Washable glue stick, a dab in the seam allowance, holds fiddly folds such as flat-felled seams and pockets.
Pinning to a dress form
Use long pins or T-pins, pushed in at an angle so they grip the padding. When fitting garments on a person, put pins in pointing downward or sideways, never upward toward the face, and ask the person to stand still while pins are near them.
Storing pins
- Pincushion: the classic tomato cushion's strawberry is filled with an abrasive (traditionally emery) to sharpen and clean pins by pushing them in and out. A wrist pincushion keeps pins within reach during fitting.
- Magnetic pin dish: picks pins up quickly and catches dropped ones. Keep magnets away from computerised sewing machines, which some manufacturers warn against.
- Pick up dropped pins straight away. A magnetic sweeper or a strong magnet in a cloth finds stray pins in carpet before feet or pets do.
Replace bent and blunt pins rather than saving them. They're cheap, and a damaged pin snags fabric every time it's used.