Basting

Basting (called tacking in the UK) is temporary stitching. It uses long, loose stitches to hold layers of fabric together, or to mark a line, until the permanent seam is sewn. Afterwards the basting is pulled out. It's slower than pinning, but far more reliable. Pins only hold at single points and can shift, while basting holds a whole line in place.

Many beginners skip basting because it feels like doing the work twice. It's usually the opposite: a few minutes of basting can save an evening of unpicking.

When basting is worth it

• Zips. Basting a zip in place before machine stitching keeps it straight and stops it shifting as you sew. See Zipper Insertion.
• Fitting. Baste side seams and darts to try a garment on. Basted seams are quick to let out or take in, and a basted muslin can be unpicked in minutes. See Fitting and Alterations.
• Set-in sleeves and eased seams. Basting holds the ease where you've distributed it. See Sleeve.
• Slippery or delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, satin and velvet, which slide away from pins.
• Matching stripes and plaids across a seam.
• Pleats, which are basted across the top to hold them before they're joined to a waistband. See Pleating.
• Underlining, which is basted to each piece before construction.
• Marking: a line of basting (thread tracing) marks a centre front or a fold line on fabrics that won't take chalk or carbon.

Hand basting

Use a single strand of thread in a contrasting colour, so it's easy to see and remove, and no knot or a small one.

• Even basting: stitches and gaps the same length, about 1/4" (6 mm). For seams that need to be held firmly, such as before fitting.
• Uneven basting: long stitches on top, short ones underneath. Quick, for marking and holding layers that won't be stressed.
• Diagonal basting: rows of slanting stitches that hold large areas flat, such as interfacing or underlining to the fashion fabric.
• Slip basting: worked from the right side, with one edge folded under, for matching stripes and plaids exactly across a seam.

Silk thread is the traditional choice for basting fine fabrics, because it slides out easily and doesn't leave marks when pressed. Avoid pressing over polyester basting thread, which can leave an imprint.

Machine basting

Set the machine to its longest straight stitch, usually 4-5 mm, and loosen the upper tension slightly so the thread pulls out easily. Don't backstitch at the ends. Machine basting is quick and fine for fitting seams and basting a zip opening closed, but it's less precise than hand basting on slippery fabrics.

Other temporary holds

• Washable glue stick, a thin line in the seam allowance, for folds, pockets and hems.
• Double-sided basting tape, for zips and trims. Keep it out of the needle's path, or use a type that can be sewn through.
• Fusible web tape for hems, though it's permanent rather than temporary.

Removing basting

Clip the basting thread every few stitches and pull out the short lengths, rather than pulling one long thread, which can pucker or mark the fabric. Remove basting before final pressing where possible, especially on delicate fabrics.