Hem
Published
A hem is the finished lower edge of a garment, sleeve or trouser leg. The raw edge is turned up and secured so it can't fray, and so the garment hangs at the right length. The hem allowance is the extra fabric below the finished length that's turned up to make the hem.
A hem is the last thing sewn and one of the first things noticed. A level, flat, invisible hem makes a garment look finished. A wavy or uneven one makes it look homemade.
How much hem allowance
| Garment | Typical hem allowance |
|---|---|
| Straight or pencil skirt, dress | 1 1/2-2" (4-5 cm) |
| A-line skirt or dress | about 1" (2.5 cm) |
| Circle or very full skirt | 1/2-1" (1.3-2.5 cm), or a narrow or rolled hem |
| Shirt and blouse | 1/4-5/8" (6-15 mm), double-turned |
| Trousers | 1 1/2" (4 cm) |
| Jackets and coats | 1 1/2-2" (4-5 cm) |
| Sheer fabrics | a narrow or rolled hem |
The more a hem curves, the narrower it needs to be. On a flared hem, the raw edge is longer than the line it folds up to, so a deep hem has too much fabric to lie flat.
Common hem finishes
- Double-turned hem: fold the raw edge up once, then again, and stitch close to the fold. Encloses the raw edge. Common on shirts and casual garments.
- Blind hem: finish the raw edge (overlock, zigzag or binding), fold it up once, and catch it to the garment with tiny stitches that barely show on the right side. Sewn by hand, or by machine with a blind-hem foot. The usual finish for skirts, dresses and trousers.
- Narrow or rolled hem: a very small double fold for sheers and full skirts, by hand, with a rolled hem foot, or on an overlocker. See Silk Chiffon.
- Faced or bias-bound hem: a strip of bias fabric or tape finishes the edge, which is useful on curves or when there's no hem allowance. See Bias Binding.
- Twin-needle or coverstitch hem: for knits, so the hem stretches. See Knit Fabrics.
- Topstitched hem: a visible row of stitching, as on jeans.
Levelling a hem
A hem that's measured from the waist won't necessarily be level from the floor, because bodies aren't symmetrical and fabric drops differently on the grain and the bias. To level a hem:
- Let bias and flared garments hang for at least a day first, so the bias sections can drop.
- Wear the garment with the shoes and underwear you'll wear with it.
- Mark the hemline at an even height from the floor, with a hem marker or a ruler and a helper, turning slowly. See Measuring Tools.
- Trim the hem allowance to an even width from the marked line, then turn up and press.
Reducing bulk
Trim the seam allowances within the hem allowance to half their width before turning up the hem, so seams don't make lumps at the bottom edge. On curved hems, run a line of long stitches near the raw edge and draw it up slightly to ease the fullness before pressing.
Pressing
Press the hem fold from the inside, using steam, and avoid pressing over the stitches of a blind hem from the right side, which can leave a ridge. On wool, slip a strip of brown paper between the hem and the garment while pressing.