Facing

A facing is a piece of fabric sewn to an edge of a garment, usually a neckline, an armhole, a front opening or a waistline, and then turned to the inside so the edge is clean and finished. From the outside you see only a crisp edge. From the inside you see a band of fabric, often interfaced, following the shape of the edge.

Types of facing

• Shaped facing: cut to exactly the same shape as the edge it finishes, typically 2-3" (5-7.5 cm) wide. The most common kind, for necklines and armholes.
• All-in-one facing: a single facing that finishes the neckline and armholes of a sleeveless garment together.
• Extended (cut-on) facing: cut in one piece with the garment and simply folded back, as on many shirt and jacket fronts.
• Bias facing: a narrow strip of bias fabric turned completely to the inside. Lighter than a shaped facing and good for sheer or casual garments. See Bias Binding.

Facing, lining or binding?

• A facing finishes an edge from the inside and is invisible from outside.
• A lining is a whole inner layer. In a lined garment the lining often replaces the facings, or is sewn to them. See Lining Fabrics.
• A binding wraps around the edge and shows on both sides.

Attaching a facing

1. Staystitch the garment's curved edge soon after cutting, so it doesn't stretch. See Staystitching.
2. Interface the facing with a lightweight fusible, so it holds its shape. See Fusible Interfacing.
3. Join the facing pieces, usually at the shoulders, and finish the outer (unnotched) edge by overlocking, zigzagging, pinking or binding it.
4. Sew the facing to the garment, right sides together, along the edge, matching seams and notches.
5. Trim, grade and clip. Trim the seam allowances, grade them, and clip the curves so the edge can turn smoothly.
6. Understitch. Press the allowances toward the facing and stitch them to it close to the seam. This is the step that stops the facing rolling to the outside. See Understitching.
7. Turn and press, rolling the seam slightly to the inside.
8. Tack it down at the shoulder and side seams, by hand or by stitching in the ditch from the outside, so the facing can't flip out when you wear the garment.

Troubleshooting

The facing keeps flipping out. It wasn't understitched, or isn't tacked at the seams. Understitch and tack it.

A ridge shows on the outside. The facing's outer edge is too bulky, or heavy interfacing stops abruptly. Use a lighter finish such as pinking or overlocking, and trim the interfacing out of the seam allowances.

The neckline gapes or ripples. The garment edge stretched before the facing went on. Staystitch next time, and on this garment ease the neckline slightly onto a stay tape before attaching the facing.