Lining Fabrics
What a lining does, how to choose between Bemberg, acetate, polyester, silk, cotton and knit linings, how much ease a lining needs, and the basics of lining skirts, dresses and jackets.
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A lining is a second, inner layer of a garment, assembled separately and attached at the edges, so the inside of the garment is finished and smooth. It does several jobs at once:
- Hides the construction: seam allowances, interfacing, darts and pocket bags.
- Helps the garment slide on and off over other clothes, and stops it clinging to tights or riding up.
- Adds opacity to light-coloured or slightly sheer fabrics.
- Protects the outer fabric from wear and perspiration, and the wearer from scratchy fabrics such as wool.
- Adds warmth in coats and jackets.
- Helps the garment keep its shape, reducing wrinkling and seat-bagging in skirts and trousers.
A lining is different from an underlining, which is attached to each piece and sewn in as one layer with it.
Choosing a lining fabric
| Lining | Feel | Breathes? | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cupro / Bemberg | Silky, smooth, anti-static | Yes | The best all-round lining: dresses, skirts, jackets, trousers | Frays; costs more |
| Acetate | Lustrous, slippery | Somewhat | Jackets and coats, traditional suit linings | Weak, frays, damaged by heat and acetone; usually dry-clean only |
| Polyester lining / satin | Slippery, durable | No | Budget linings, washable garments | Static, clammy in warm weather |
| Silk (habotai, crepe de chine) | Soft, light, luxurious | Yes | Silk garments, fine blouses, luxury linings | Expensive; slippery to cut |
| Cotton lawn or batiste | Soft, matte | Yes | Summer dresses, children's clothes, bodice linings, linings for cotton garments | Doesn't slide; can cling |
| Tricot or knit lining | Stretchy, smooth | Varies | Knit and stretch garments | Can be hard to handle |
| Flannel-backed satin or quilted lining | Warm | No | Winter coats | Bulk |
Matching lining to the garment
- Weight: the lining should be the same weight as the outer fabric or lighter, never heavier, or it will drag the garment out of shape.
- Care: both fabrics must be washed the same way. A washable cotton dress with a dry-clean-only acetate lining is no longer washable. Pre-wash linings that will be washed.
- Stretch: a stretch garment needs a lining that stretches at least as much, or the lining limits the fit and can split.
- Colour: for jackets and coats, a contrast or printed lining is a nice detail. For dresses and skirts, match the outer colour or go slightly lighter so it doesn't show through.
Linings need ease
A lining has to move with the garment, so it needs a little extra room, especially in jackets and coats:
- In jackets and coats, a small pleat at the centre back (about 1" / 2.5 cm folded in) gives room across the shoulders when you reach forward. The lining hem is usually attached with a jump pleat, a small fold that lets the lining move without pulling on the outer hem.
- In skirts and dresses, the lining is cut from the same pattern pieces, sometimes with darts converted to soft pleats for extra ease. Some sewists sew the lining seams slightly narrower than the outer seams so it's a touch roomier and never pulls the outer fabric.
- Lining hems are normally about 1" (2.5 cm) shorter than the finished garment, so they never peek out below it.
Lining a skirt: the basic method
- Construct the outer skirt up to the zip and leave the waist unfinished.
- Sew the lining separately, using the same pattern pieces, leaving the zip opening unsewn a little below where the zip ends.
- Place the lining inside the skirt, wrong sides together, and baste them together at the waist.
- Turn under the lining's seam allowances at the zip opening and slipstitch them to the zip tape by hand, clear of the teeth.
- Attach the waistband or facing through both layers.
- Hem the outer skirt and the lining separately, with the lining about 1" (2.5 cm) shorter. Join them at the side seams with short thread chains (French tacks) so the lining stays in place but can move.
Lining a sleeveless dress
The neat way to line a sleeveless bodice encloses the neckline and armholes in one go. It's often called the "burrito" method, because the bodice is rolled up inside the lining to sew the armholes and then turned out. Many patterns include it. It gives a clean, facing-free finish with no hand sewing.
Sewing slippery linings
Most lining fabrics are slippery and fray, so cut them single-layer, over paper if necessary, with a rotary cutter or sharp shears. Use a fine Microtex needle (70/10), a slightly shorter stitch, and finish the seams with an overlocker or zigzag, or with French seams in sheer linings. Press on a low setting with a press cloth: acetate and polyester melt at relatively low temperatures.