Aubree's Dressmaking Notebook

Notions

Published

Simple drawings of common sewing notions: a spool of thread, buttons, a zip, a hook and eye, a snap and a length of elastic.

Notions are all the small items, other than fabric, that go into making a garment. In the UK they're often called haberdashery. Every commercial pattern lists the notions it needs on the back of the envelope or in the instructions, and having them all before you start saves a mid-project trip to the shop.

The main kinds of notion

  • Thread for construction and topstitching. See the Needle, Thread & Stitch Length Chart.
  • Fastenings: zips, buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps (press studs), hook-and-loop tape, and, for corsets, busks and grommets. See Zipper Insertion and Buttonhole.
  • Elastic for waistbands, cuffs and stretch garments. See Elastic.
  • Interfacing, fusible or sew-in, for collars, facings and waistbands. See Fusible Interfacing.
  • Tapes: bias tape, twill tape, stay tape and seam binding, for finishing and stabilising edges. See Bias Binding.
  • Structure: boning, shoulder pads, horsehair braid, waist stay ribbon. See Boning.
  • Trims: ribbon, lace, piping, braid, fringe.
  • Labels for the inside of your garments, if you like to sign your work.

Reading a pattern's notions list

A typical list might read: "Thread, 22" (56 cm) invisible zip, 1/2 yd (0.5 m) of 20" (50 cm) wide lightweight fusible interfacing, one hook and eye." Pay attention to:

  • Zip length and type. Invisible, regular or separating zips aren't interchangeable. A longer zip can usually be shortened. A shorter one can't be lengthened.
  • Button size. It's given as a diameter or a "line" size. Buttonholes are sized to the button, so changing the button size means changing the buttonholes.
  • Elastic width. Waistband casings are drafted for a specific width.
  • Interfacing weight, matched to your fabric.

Buying tips

  • Take a fabric swatch to the shop to match colours, especially thread and zips.
  • Thread: if you can't match exactly, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric, which blends in better than a lighter one.
  • Buttons: buy one or two spares and keep them with the garment's details.
  • Buy elastic and interfacing by the metre and keep a stock of the types you use most.
  • Check quality. Cheap zips break, cheap thread snaps and fluffs, and old elastic loses its stretch. These small items decide how long the garment lasts.