Evolution of Undergarments

Much of what changes in the outer silhouette from decade to decade starts underneath. A Victorian bodice, a flapper dress and a New Look suit each depend on a particular foundation, and none of them would look right over the others'. Following the history of underwear explains why certain fashions were possible at all, and it's essential for anyone sewing historical or vintage-style clothing.

The 19th century: corset, chemise, petticoats

For most of the 1800s, a woman's underwear was built in layers: a linen or cotton chemise next to the skin, drawers (split or closed), a boned corset, and petticoats. Over the century the corset was transformed by metal eyelets (introduced in 1828), steel boning (replacing baleen from the 1830s), the front-opening split busk, and steam moulding (1868). See Victorian Corsetry.

The shape of the skirt depended on its own foundation. In the 1850s, layers of petticoats gave way to the cage crinoline (1856), a frame of light steel hoops that supported huge skirts without the weight. In the 1870s and 1880s, the bustle, a pad or frame at the back, pushed the fullness behind. Later in the century, combinations, chemise and drawers joined into one garment, became common.

1889-1914: the corset divides

Around 1900, the straight-front corset produced the S-bend silhouette of the Edwardian era, and corsets lengthened over the hips toward the end of the decade. Meanwhile, the bust and waist were being separated:

• In 1889, the French corsetière Herminie Cadolle made a two-piece undergarment, a corset with a separate upper part supporting the bust on shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper part was being sold separately as a soutien-gorge, still the French word for bra.
• In 1914, the American Mary Phelps Jacob patented a soft "backless brassiere" made from two handkerchiefs and ribbon, after her corset spoiled the line of a sheer evening dress. She later sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company, which mass-produced the design. See Notable Figures.

The 1920s and 30s: soft foundations

The straight, loose 1920s silhouette needed flattening, not shaping. Bandeau bras flattened the bust, and elasticated girdles and corselets smoothed the hips, so rigid boned corsets largely disappeared from everyday wear. In the 1930s, as curves returned, bras became more structured, with shaped cups. Cup sizes were introduced during the decade, and new elastic yarns made lighter, two-way-stretch girdles possible.

The 1940s and 50s: structure returns

Nylon stockings went on sale in the US in 1940 and became so precious during wartime shortages that some women painted seams on their legs instead. After the war, the New Look brought back the small waist, and with it waist cinchers (guêpières), longline bras and firm girdles. The 1950s silhouette depended on conical, circular-stitched bras, roll-on girdles and stiffened petticoats. See 1950s Hourglass Silhouette.

The 1960s and 70s: freedom and stretch

Spandex, invented at DuPont by Joseph Shivers in 1958 and introduced as Lycra in 1962, replaced rubber in foundation garments, making them lighter and more comfortable. Tights (pantyhose), combining stockings and briefs, spread in the 1960s and suited the miniskirt. Girdles fell out of everyday use. Bras became softer and lighter, and some women went without.

In 1977, Lisa Lindahl, Polly Smith and Hinda Miller created the Jogbra, the first commercial sports bra; Lindahl and Smith's prototype was famously made from two jockstraps sewn together. It reflected the growing number of women running and exercising.

The late 20th century and after

The 1990s brought push-up and padded bras back into fashion, along with underwear as outerwear: slip dresses, visible bra straps, corset tops. From the 2000s, shapewear, stretch garments that smooth and shape, became a large industry, a modern descendant of the girdle. The 2010s and 2020s added bralettes, wireless and soft-cup bras, wider size ranges, and garments designed for comfort first.

Why it matters when sewing

1. Fit over the right foundation. A bodice fitted over one kind of bra will fit differently over another. For any fitted garment, take measurements and fit the muslin wearing the underwear you'll wear with it.
2. Historical and vintage styles need their foundations. A Victorian bodice needs a corset, a New Look dress a waist cincher or longline bra, a 1950s full skirt a petticoat. Modern underwear under a reproduction gives a modern shape. See Boning a Bodice.
3. The outer garment's construction follows. Where a corset or girdle does the shaping, the dress can be softer. Where there's no foundation, the dress itself has to carry the structure, with boning, darts or stretch.